COMET PHANTOM FURY PLANS UPDATE
COMET PHANTOM FURY PLANS FULL

In both cases I carved an 8in prop though looking back a 9 or 10 would be even better. Perfect joints also help avoid warps - filling crappy joints with glue is asking for trouble as the glue shrinks and pulls the structure. You can also pin your tissue down and pre-shrink it to tame it a bit before putting it on the frame. Same process for a couple of thinned coats of non-shrink dope. Water shrink by spraying lightly with an airbrush and weight down at least 1/8 off the board to dry. Then remove it and do the same on the other side. Pin the tissue down flat, put your adhesive on the frame and offer it up to the tissue keeping the grain perfectly parallel to the lengthwise axis. This means both sides covering at the same tension and orientation, same water shrinking, same doping. To prevent warps you need to ensure that the stresses on both sides of the tailplane are equal. I did put diagonal bracing on the tailplane however. It always touched down like a feather so I had no issues. In practice it never moved so I built the second one as drawn. I was worried about the U/C and so on the first one I built it on a separate plate inset into the fuselage and rubber banded on. I found this model to be a real floater and had many really good thermal flights with it. I have built 2 of these models - one in the USA in 1988 when the kit was actually still for sale in Two Rivers Wisconsin, and another a few years later when I returned home to NZ with the plan in my luggage. If I build another, I'll use 3/32' balsa instead of 1/16' and go with lighter wood, stronger and lighter. While the model did fly well, my two loops of 1/8' rubber didn't provide enough power, plan is to add more rubber and maybe a larger prop for better performance. The balsa landing gear design is weak, I had to brace it better to survive the first landings. My kit came with a 6' plastic prop but it was too small. Comet expected you to build up a 6' prop from 1/8' printwood but I substituted a carved balsa version of 8' instead. The plans called for a removable tail section which I left out as too much trouble with no advantage. I added another spar to the top of the wing for added stiffness, no problem with warps. I ended up building another with lighter but larger wood including diagonal braces, both lighter and stronger. When I shrunk the Doculam covering, the stab warped like a potato chip. The fuselage wood was very heavy but also strong and it worked out well, tail feathers were another matter, plans warned against shrinking the covering but I didn't listen. It was small enough to use the Upstairs Aircraft Assembly Area instead of the chilly basement. This was my Winter project last year after being given an ancient Comet kit. You can help us fix it.Ġ03.jpg 004.jpg 005.jpg 006.jpg 007.jpg 008.jpgĭo you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then Here's the new plan.'ĭid we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? I don't know if you want this but I redrew the wings and stabilizer and joined the wings for the Phantom Fury. Quote: 'Hi Steve, There was some talk on a thread that the wings didn't line up correctly.

COMET PHANTOM FURY PLANS UPDATE

Update : Replaced this plan with a clearer version, thanks to pd1. I scanned the printwood, all three sheets.' Quote: 'Hi Steve, I saw that the printwood was incomplete for the Comet Phantom Fury.

COMET PHANTOM FURY PLANS FULL

Update : Replaced this plan with a copy that includes full printwood, thanks to pd1. I do not have an original kit however I can attempt to transpose the requisite formers and send them in for inclusion'. In the process of constructing this fine airplane I noticed no nose formers at all in the included print wood.

Padmonkey mailed in to say 'the Comet Phantom Fury is not all formers complete. High wing cabin rubber powered duration model.

Comet phantom fury plans